Spaghetti with cauliflower sauce

This easy and filling dish is delicious. The anchovies add a richness and the caulflower adds a great texture.

1 medium cauliflower 

dried chilli flakes a large pinch

2 cloves of garlic sliced

large pinch of chilli flakes

1 tin of anchovies in olive oil 

flat-leaf parsley ½ a small bunch, finely chopped

spaghetti 350g

 

serves 4

 

Method 

• Boil the cauliflower in a large pot of water until well cooked, about 15 minutes
• While the cauliflower is cooking pour the oil from the anchovies into a large frying pan, warm gently, then add sliced garlic cloves and the chilli flakes, cooking until softened, then add the anchovies, and cook for 2 minutes until the anchovies start to disintegrate
• Take the cooked cauliflower from the pot, keeping the water to cook the spaghetti
• Break up the cooked cauliflower into the frying pan with the anchovy, garlic, chilli mixture and mash it with a fork, keeping the frying pan warm
• Cook the spaghetti in boiling water used to cook the cauliflower, according to pack instructions, then drain, reserving some of the cooking water
• Pour the reserved liquid into the cauliflower mixture, and when it bubbles stir in the cooked spaghetti, stir through and turn off the heat.
• Serve in a large bowl sprinkling over finely chopped parsley – or divide between four bowls and add the parsley.
• Add parmesan if you like.

Or divide between four bowls and serve with the pine nuts and parmesan sprinkled over.

 

All the Gratins

These gratin dishes were originally put together to use the residual heat from the baker’s oven for the family Sunday meal, prepared and left with the baker to be cooked  in the cooling bread oven and be collected after church and taken home to eat.

 

These days we are used to strong flavours, but please don’t be tempted to add more herbs, garlic or stock. The way these dishes are put together makes them pack beautiful flavour. It’s tempting to tweak recipes, but try and resist.

You can make all the potato elements of these gratins into vegetarian or vegan dishes by substituting oil and plant milk.

The recipes are for a group of 6-8, using a large quantity of potatoes - I'll be working on versions for smaller meals and will post them in a while.

 

This recipe collection was saved by my parents, cut out from a magazine and kept, despite them having multiple cookbooks and years of experience. It's a high recommendation.

Gigot boulangere – roast leg of lamb on potatoes

 

For 6-8 people

cooking time 4h+

 

Ingredients

One leg of lamb 1.75-2kg

2.5kg/5½lb potatoes

100g butter

sprigs of thyme, bay leaves

2 cloves of garlic

pepper and salt

an oven dish as long as the leg of lamb, and around as deep as your finger

 

Method

set the oven to warm 6 (400 or 200) at least 15 minutes in advance

Lamb

 

The lamb can be prepared in advance but should be at room temperature when you start to prepare the meal

• Peel the garlic cloves, cut into long slivers and with a sharp knife puncture the leg deep into the meat and push the slivers in, repeat until you’ve used all the garlic
• Mash half the butter with pepper and salt, then slather over the leg of lamb and set aside.

 Potatoes

• peel the potatoes and cut them into thin slices then spread them out in the oven dish in layers
• between each layer put a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf and repeat until the potatoes are all in the dish
• add enough water in the dish to reach the top of the potatoes, sprinkle with pepper and salt and add half the butter
• set the potatoes to cook in the oven for around two hours – check them after 20m, and once they are boiling turn the heat down to 5/375/190. the potatoes  should be completely cooked before you add the lamb, but still be pale
• take the cooked potatoes out and put the buttered, seasoned, garlic studded leg of lamb onto them
• turn the oven to its highest setting
• cook the lamb for 15m per lb/500g to be pink/a point or 20m per lb/500g to be cooked through
• check the lamb every 20m, turning it if it’s very coloured, there is no need to baste it

Once cooked rest the lamb 15 minutes, when carving save the jus to pour over the cooked potatoes

 

Roti de porc boulangere – roast pork on potatoes

 

For 6-8 people

Cooking time 3h+

Ingredients

1.8kg/4lb rack or loin of pork

2.5kg/5½lb of potatoes

60g butter

thym, bay leaves

nutmeg

pepper and salt

 

Method

set the oven to warm 6 (400 or 200) at least 15 minutes in advance

 

prepare the pork by rubbing mashing the pepper and salt into the butter and rubbing it all over the meat

 

• peel the potatoes and cut them into thin slices then spread them out in the oven dish in layers
• between each layer grate a little nutmeg, crumble thyme and break up a bay leaf and repeat until the potatoes are all in the dish
• add enough water in the dish to reach the top of the potatoes, sprinkle with pepper and salt and add half the butter
• set the potatoes to cook in the oven for an hour
• adding water to bring it up to the top layer of the potatoes if needed before sitting the pork onto the potatoes

• the pork needs to cook through, in a low oven, allow 22-28m per lb/500g, so turn the oven to 2/300/150 ie around 1¾h depending on the thickness of the joint, then turn off the oven leaving the dish inside for 5-10m
• at this point the liquid in the potatoes will be almost completely gone
• put the dish on the table and carve the pork, pouring any juices into the potato gratin

 

Pommes boulangere – potato gratin or layered baked potatoes

 

For 6-8 people

cooking time around 2h

 

Ingredients

2kg/5lb potatoes

10 onions – medium sized

60g/4 tbsp of butter

3 tbsp oil

salt and pepper

nutmeg

 

Method

roughly chop the peeled onions and cook in a pan on a gentle heat with the oil and half the butter, stirring, making sure they stay pale. Cook until transparent.

 

Set the oven to warm mark 6/400/200 at least 15 minutes in advance

 

peel the potatoes and cut them into thin slices then spread them out in the oven dish in layers

between each layer grate a little nutmeg and add some cooked onion mixture and repeat until the potatoes are all in the dish

add enough water in the dish to reach the top of the potatoes, sprinkle with pepper and salt and add the rest of the butter and the cooking fat from the onion pan

set the potatoes to cook in the oven for an hour then turn the oven up to its maximum temperature and cook another 30m

 

This dish goes well with any roast meat, ham, dried or cooked sausages

 

Gratin Dauphinois – Creamy baked potato gratin

 

This richer version of gratin potatoes goes best with plainer roasts, boiled meats or plain fish dishes. It is delicious, but has a richness of a savoury pudding, and that’s why the quantity of potatoes is reduced. It’s delicious as a main dish and you can make it with plant milk to serve a vegan dish – don’t use coconut oil, it makes it too dessert-y.

 

Some versions of this dish include egg and even cheese, which creates something very like a potato version of macaroni cheese, tipping it over into excess stodge, don’t do it.

 

cooking time 1.5h+

For 6-8 people

 

Ingredients

2kg/5lb potatoes

four cloves of garlic

½ litre/1 pint warmed milk

6 tbsps cream or crème fraiche

 

Method

rub a peeled clove of garlic around a large deep gratin dish, and crush the remaining garlic into a paste

peel the potatoes and cut them into thin slices then spread half the potatoes into layers in the oven dish

season with pepper and salt, sprinkling of crumbled thyme and half the crushed garlic

add more layers until the potatoes are all in the dish

mix the milk and cream and pour over the potatoes, adding enough water in the dish if needed to reach the top of the potatoes – leave enough room above the layered potatoes so that when the milk boils it stays inside the dish

cook for 1½h or until the milk has boiled away and the potatoes are cooked through

 

Serve with plain meat or fish and lightly cooked vegetables

This is Cauliflower Soup

In this strange period between Christmas and New Year the mind wanders. Mine has wandered to soup. I'm going to post a soup a week for a while. This week's soup is made from cauliflower. I'm recycling it from an earlier post... 

Cauliflower Soup

I like soup all year round, and in the winter I like it even more. The variety of consistencies of soup is also a delight, minestrone types - mixed finely chopped veg is great, but sometimes what is wanted is a smooth soup. Thanks to hand blenders these soups are very easy to make. When I can't lay my hands on a blender I have been known to scoop out some of the cooked vegetables so that I can mash them with a fork. The mashed veg then lend variety to the texture of the soup, and act as a thickener as well.

This recipe for cauliflower soup is very easy. I use leftover cooked cauliflower, but it would be worth cooking it especially for the purpose. Pureed cauliflower is very smooth indeed, velvety, like chocolate. Ok, I know that chocolate afficionados out there may be outraged, but it really does give the same pleasure when you eat it, at least from the point of view of texture. Mouth feel as it is called by some.

I am not oblivious to the fact that some people don't like cauliflower. Obviously, they are nuts. The low, slightly rooty and a little bit cabbagey flavour is wonderful, as far as I am concerned. I have converted people to cauliflower by cooking it in pieces (steam or boil) and then sauteeing in butter with plenty of black pepper and a pinch of salt. The sound as it rolls around the frying pan is great, the smell is terrific, it looks so tasty, with the little browned patches and when it comes to the taste, it is glorious. Rooty, nutty, peppery, buttery and sweet - and it hardly needs chewing. 

Recipe

Ingredients

 

a large bowlful of cooked cauliflower

1 onion

1 potato

1 clove garlic

large handful of parsley, chopped

three mugfuls of water/stock

pepper and salt

nutmeg

Method

• Prepare the onion, potato and garlic - peel and chop up quite small - and cook in the water until soft
• Add the cauliflower and chopped parsley, pepper and salt (to taste, but make sure there is lots of pepper) and a pinch of nutmeg, simmer for a couple of minutes
• Blend the lot and serve

If you're greedy and organised you could accompany your soup with a nice samosa and pea fritter, or similar.

Double dark chocolate sorbet

If you want an intensely chocolate experience, then this is the recipe for you. And it's dairy free. I don't know about low calorie since it's got sugar in it, however, the flavour is so good you might be able to just eat a little of it.

There's a debate what to call it, sorbet or granita, sorbet being smoother and having finer crystals. It's a matter of how much you smoosh it up I suppose. I like it with finer crystals. I use the bowl on a stick blender.

If you have any left over, it does keep in the freezer, getting harder and harder the longer it's there, so you will need to break it up again.

The main thing is that this is easy to make and it tastes good. If you want a hit of cold and of chocolate give this a go.

500ml/2 cups/16fl oz dark coffee
65g/2/3 cup/3 oz cocoa powder
150g /2/3 cup/30z granulated sugar
1 tsp vanilla essence
85g/3oz of dark chocolate (thats around 4/5 of a 100g bar)

• take a medium sized saucepan, put in the coffee, sugar and cocoa and whisk over a low heat until everything is combined and smooth and the sugar has completely melted.
• add the chocolate broken into pieces along with the vanilla essence and keep stirring until mixture is smooth
• allow it to cool, then pour into a plastic container and put into the freezer, stirring the mixture every hour for around five hours. Then leave the mixture to freeze completely
• take the frozen mixture shortly before you plan to eat it and beat it with a fork to break it up - it will melt quickly
• serve with cream or coffee or vanilla ice cream, it's also good with chocolate sauce

Beetroot leaf soup

We love beetroot, especially when it's been freshly cooked at home.

Not so long ago I was standing on a platform at Liverpool Street station, metropolitan line. On my way home from a little jaunt. Something was nagging at me, but then that's what tube travel used to be like - right now it seems a far off dream of course. I got to Dollis Hill and it came to me. An hour or so before I'd run out of the house leaving a pot of beetroot cooking on the stove, in our newly built kitchen. I called a neighbour friend who keeps our key for emergencies and went around straight away to check and turn it off. Everything was fine, although the house smelled like I'd been smoking food. Which I had. The beetroot were charred shrivelled remains, having been left to boil dry on a very low heat with a lid on the pan. They were a also inedible, although another slightly less charred edition tasted great, kinda chipotle style, smoke dried ripe beetroot. 

Undaunted I am still cooking beetroot, and admiring the pan in question. It was an inherited pentole pan, you can see it in the pictures below. It's the best pan I have for beetroot. Like many things of value it has a heavy bottom.

Time was you bought beetroot fresh cooked off a market stall, the stall holder had a gas burner and was cooking it in large batches on the spot. I suppose in the cold weather it kept them warm. Now beetroot are often sold with all their greenery, and loath to bin it, I've been cooking it. I've made beet leaf tarts and lately beet leaf soup.



I took the tops off the fresh beetroot, gave them a wash and popped them into a pot with water, veg stock. I boiled them for about 20 minutes, then I got the stick blender out and pureed the lot.

Beetroot top soup, very tasty.

Voila. A little bit of greek yoghurt and some pepper to stir through

Sesame salt - store cupboard essential - Gomasio

Gomasio is ground and toasted sesame condiment that makes plain vegetables and plain rice a delicious meal. You can use it alongside soy sauce or instead of it. I can't recommend it enough. I make it by toasting the sesame seeds and adding a pinch of salt. Some people use more salt, but I find it overwhelming.

I use a suribachi but you can use
a pestle and mortar or a food processor

you can see the grooves that help grind the seeds

I made some cottage pies too..

Gluten free chocolate joy - Queen of Sheba cake, Reine de Saba

So chocolate lovers, this cake is for you.
Intense chocolate flavour
in a gluten free cake and a brilliant name. Give it a go

You may have noticed that there isn't a lot of flour on the shelves in many supermarkets. Is everyone baking? Since I'm not walking around the whole area I can't smell the results, and there's no biscuits baking smell wafting over from the McVities factory at the moment either.

I finally got some flour actually, at the Co-op in Cricklewood, thank you Co-op. And I got a bar of basic dark chocolate (43% for those who want detail). And it's my lovely daughter's birthday.. and she loves chocolate. At the same time I found a recipe in Elizabeth David was being shared by a BBC London Radio listener on facebook and since it's called the Queen of Sheba and my daughter is a special person, definitely got some regal stuff going on, I decided to give it a go.

Queen of Sheba cake

Ingredients

the cake dusted
with icing sugar

125g butter

125g sugar

125g dark chocolate

100 g ground almonds 

3 eggs, separated
1 tbsp coffee and spirit if you like

Set your oven to 160C

Method

• separate the eggs, into yolks and whites 
• melt chocolate (in bain marie, microwave or oven)
• add butter to melted chocolate, beating it until smooth
• add in the egg yolks one by one, beating to combine, following with the sugar and ground almonds, beating until everything is properly combined
• whip the egg whites until they form soft peaks
• fold the fluffy egg whites through the chocolate mixture, in cutting motions to keep as much air as possible
• pour mixture into prepared 8"/20cm lined tin
• bake for 45m

allow to cool before removing from the tin - be careful, it's fragile cake, dust with cocoa or icing sugar to servev.

You need a strong arm or an electric whisk or equivalent. I use an old fashioned hand held electric whisk. I don't have a big machine, just a lot of bowls. I realised that I would need a gadget garage to fit one in the kitchen, or it would have to sit on the side and I don't find it very attractive, so I got the hand held whisk. There's no flour or baking powder, the raising agent is beaten egg whites. 

20cm tin prepped
with butter and cocoa

melt the chocolate

stir the butter into the melted chocolate
 then stir in the yolks, sugar and ground almonds

beat together and leave to cool

whisk the egg whites
until they make soft peaks

stir the whites through the chocolate
mixture until combined

you can see a bit of unstirred
egg white

reverse crumble chocolate dessert

Raymond Blanc’s reverse crumble chocolate dessert is something I've come across while cruising the interweb for chocolate cake recipes, because who doesn't? It looks pretty good. Overnight chill needed, and not much flour, so the current shortage of the stuff might not put you off, so long as you can get cream, butter, milk and eggs.

If you substitute gluten free flour in the crumble, you have a gluten free dessert. 

Method

Grease an 8”/20cm cake ring, line a baking tray with greaseproof paper and sit the ring on it

Set the oven to 160 fan oven 170 normal oven

For crumble

35g butter unsalted, cold

35g sugar demerera

pinch of salt

30g flour (gf if you like)

1/5 tsp cocoa powder

Combine to a breadcrumb texture to make a crumble and bake in oven 170 for 10-12m

for choc cream

90ml whipping cream

150ml full fat milk

155g 70% choc broken into pieces

1 egg

• heat the milk and cream together to almost boiling
• start beating the egg gently then slowly pour hot milk into the beaten egg continue beating to combine.
• add the chocolate to the hot egg/milk mixture and keep beating slowly until the chocolate has melted completely, which may take a few minutes.
• allow the mixture to cool then pour over the crumble base and leave to chill in the fridge overnight

Just before serving

• slip the cake onto a plate
• loosen the edge of the cake with a hot knife and remove the ring before serving

Lively coleslaw to add colour, vitamins and flavour

Make this fresh coleslaw to give a boost to a grey day, or to top up on vitamin C and fibre, or just to have something delicious on its own, with rice or as a side dish with a more substantial main course.

Recipe - enough for four as a side dish. Or for one greedy person.



Ingredients

SALAD

• 1/2 small white or red cabbage
• 2 large carrots
• 1/2 onion
• 1 fresh red chilli (or substitute/combine with sweet chilli sauce
• big handful fresh coriander
• small handful fresh mint
• 1 clove garlic
• 2 tbsp thai fish sauce (replace with soy if vegan)
• juice of 1 lime (enough for at least 5 tbsp)
• 1 tsp sugar

METHOD

• finely shred the cabbage
• peel and grate the carrots
• finely dice the onion
• crush and peel the garlic and chop finely
• deseed the chilli and chop finely
• finely chop the stems of the washed coriander and shred the leaves
• take the mint leaves off the stems and shred finely
• put everything in a bowl and add the fish sauce, lime juice and tsp of sugar
• stir, mixing thoroughly

shredded lettuce is added to this version

Update on jam fail, marmalade fail, kitchen sorrow

Having intended to make marmalade, with a bag of Seville oranges at the ready, I wasn't and I didn't. Cooking does need attention, and I failed to give it the time and space required for jam. 

Note to self: get on with it, don't just let everything sit and imagine you're cooking.

Apart from my lack of follow-through, I don't think the Seville oranges I got were very good. In previous years I've bought them from the local grocer and they were a lot bigger, juicier and more perfumed. I did get to the first stage of marmalade, squeezing the fruit and cutting the peel, which in itself is very therapeutic and makes your hands smell wonderful. I'd like to blame the quality of the oranges, but it was the quality of the cook that was the clincher. 

So, as my husband pithily puts it, the oranges ended up being expensive compost. The shame.

Dan Lepard's Marmalade

I'm going to try this recipe - just bought some Seville oranges. This Christmas I gave away the last of the marmalade I made three years ago. It was a bit runny and also the dark variety made with muscovado sugar, not so popular. That's why it took so long to find takers...

small Seville oranges big lemon

Ingredients

• 500g/1lb 2 oz Seville oranges
• 50ml/2 fl oz lemon juice
• 1kg/2lb 4 oz white sugar: regular, not with added pectin
• soft dark brown sugar, optional

Method

1. Weigh the oranges and make a note of the weight, as this will tell you how much of the other ingredients you’ll need, to ensure the marmalade sets well. My basic ratio is: both the sugar and the strained liquid from the sliced and simmered oranges should roughly equal twice the weight of the uncooked whole oranges. So if you start with 500g/1lb 2 oz whole oranges, after cooking you want to be left with a litre/1¾ pint of liquid once the peels have been strained out, and you need 1kg/2lb 4 oz of sugar.
2. Cut the oranges in half and squeeze out the juice, as this makes chopping the peel less messy. Remove any pips from the juice, spoon any remaining pips out of the peel, place them in a tea cup and cover with water. Then chop the peel into shreds about 0.25cm/⅛in across and place these in a bowl with the juice and cover with water. Leave both overnight, as this will help the marmalade set well.
3. The next day, place the peel and water in a saucepan. Sieve the pips, place their soaking water (which will have jellied slightly) into the saucepan, then tie the pips in muslin and drop this into the pot. Bring to the boil then simmer for 2-3 hours, topping up with water so that the fruit stays well covered, until the peel is soft when squished between your fingers. Alternatively, cook in a pressure cooker for about 30 minutes.
4. Strain the juice from the peel and measure it. Whatever the original weight of fruit was at the beginning, you want about double that in cooking liquid. So if you started with 500g/1lb 2 oz fruit, then try and have roughly a litre/1¾ pint (in other words 1000ml or 1000g) of cooking liquid left. If you have more, boil it down in a saucepan to intensify it. If you have less, top it up with water to dilute it.
5. Then add the sugar (double the weight of the oranges), plus 1-2 tbsp brown sugar if you like to make the colour darker. Add the strained peel, plus 50ml/2 fl oz of lemon juice for every 500g/1lb 2 oz uncooked whole oranges used. Bring to the boil, skim off any white froth and pips that rise to the surface, and then boil until the temperature reaches 105C/220F.
6. Meanwhile sterilise enough jars in the oven and have the lids washed and ready. When the marmalade reaches 105C/220F, turn the heat off and leave for 10 minutes. Ladle the marmalade into a jug then pour this carefully into the jars, leaving just a bare 0.5cm/¼in gap at the top. Screw the lid on tightly and leave undisturbed until completely cold.

Salad dressings - take your pick

Hot or cold salads are a standard go-to and sometimes you want to find a new twist or return to an old flavour. So I'm making a list of dressings. Slowly

Mustard vinaigrette

Large teaspoon Dijon mustard

Large pinch salt

Generous grindings of black pepper

I tbsp wine vinegar

2 tbsp light oil (sunflower or similar)

• mix salt, pepper and mustard
• stir in the vinegar until it is well combined
• stir in oil until dressing looks like a loose mayonnaise

Family vinaigrette

1 clove garlic (peeled)
salt (preferably maldon) hearty pinch
pepper several good grindings
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
3 to 4 tbsp best olive oil

method 1

with pestle and mortar
pound the garlic, pepper and salt together to make a fine puree, don't stint, really mash it up
add the vinegar
mix to a uniform paste
add olive oil and mix well

without pestle and mortar

finely chop the garlic (as small as you can, crushing it with the side of a knife first will release the delicious juices,and help get the skin off)

method 2
mix chopped garlic, pepper and salt together

add the vinegar
mix well
add olive oil and stir

Asian salad dressing

• 1 fresh red chilli
• big handful fresh coriander
• small handful fresh mint
• 1 clove garlic
• 2 tbsp thai fish sauce
• juice of 1 lime (enough for at least 5 tbsp)
• 1 tsp sugar

finely chop washed stems of coriander (making 1 heaped tbsp)

finely chop  chilli, mint and garlic

mix all the ingredients together